Papa’s European adventures, solo ~ Budapest Dec 13-15

Pictures

10 million people speak the Hungarian (Uralic) language; it borders Slovakia to the north, Ukraine to the northeast, Austria to the northwest, Romania to the east, and old Yugoslavia to the West and South (Serbia to the south, Croatia to the southwest, and Slovenia to the west). That geography goes a long way in understanding their history.

Summary: On Friday Dec 13 I took a train to Budapest from Salzburg, arriving just after 2PM. After walking to my Airbnb room in the Jewish Quarter, I left to walk around town. I stopped at a “street vendor” (it was actually a group of trailers with a lot of traffic and so looked safe) where I had some Hungarian dinner. It ruined my stomach for the rest of the trip. Next to the food spot was the Szimpla Kert, a famous tourist spot. Much of the Jewish Quarter was run down and ready to be torn down after the fall of communism, but some artists started moving in, determined to save the area it seems. They did that my opening community centers that would anchor the neighborhood and serve beer, too.

Saturday I signed up for a 4 hour tour with George, who was a 1st generation Hungarian (one parent was Egyptian, the other Hungarian with German roots) but a very proud Hungarian at that. Turns out I had George all to myself as no one else had signed up for the tour, which was fantastic for a lot of Q&A. What I learned is what’s documented here.

By the end of the 4 hours I was mentally exhausted; it was intense, in a good way. George was fantastic but I could sense some of his biases with respect to Transylvania (he suggested it is predominantly Hungarian, which I don’t think is true – plus, he never really mentioned Slovakia, which was also taken from Hungary yet when it broke fro Czech it didn’t look to re-unify with Hungary).

After George’s tour I signed up for another 3 hour tour, focusing on times during Communist rule. However, the aforementioned trailer food was wreaking havoc on my gut so I had to leave half way through to take care of business. Once it was dark I went back out for dinner, then retraced my steps with George on both sides of the Danube (with Buda on the west on Pest to the east) to take pictures at night. By the end of the night I concluded that I had seen everything, and so Sunday morning I was back on the train, 44 hours after my arrival. Despite the quick trip it was a very interesting city, and I really enjoyed my time there.

My notes:

– The year 896 is considered the start of Hungary, by the Hungarian grand prince Árpád following the conquest of the Carpathian Basin. The 7 Asianic tribes who first settled in Hungary around 896 are commemorated at the Heroes Plaza.

– In 997 the great-grandson of Árpád, Stephen I, ascended the throne. Szent Istvan (Steven) ruled from 997-1038 and converted the region to a Christian kingdom, to more closely align Hungary with Europe. He wanted Hungary to evolve away from a semi-nomadic culture into a feudal state (ownership of land vs service/labor).  Applying to Pope Sylvester II, Stephen received the insignia of royalty (including the Holy Crown of Hungary, currently kept in the Hungarian Parliament) from the papacy so it was then recognized as a Catholic Apostolic Kingdom. Hungary adopted Latin which remained the official language as late as 1844.

– By the 12th century, Hungary became a regional power.

– 1241, Mongolian invasion. The Mongolians seemed to be nomadic, so they wouldn’t conquer as much as they would rape, plunder and move on. After kicking Hungary’s butt, Hungary started building castles and fortifications, anticipating the return of the Mongols. See Fisherman’s Bastion in Buda as one example.

– 15th century Hungary reaches its cultural and political height.

– 1541-1699 Ottoman Empire. Despite many Ottomon’s not having Turkish descent, Hungarians aren’t too accepting of Turks today (according to George; he swore he would never visit).

– Early 1800’s. St Stephen’s Basilica is built. At first the Basilica was to be named after Saint Leopold, the patron saint of Austria, but the plan was changed in the very last minute to St. Stephen’s Basilica. In here is the mummified hand of Szent Istvan!

– 1849, Hungarian Revolution. They are independent for a short time…

– 1867 the Austro–Hungarian Empire. This was not a marriage of equals; Austria, as the seat of the Church, had most of the power. The Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867 established the dual monarchy of Austria-Hungary. The Compromise
partially re-established the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Hungary, separate from, and no longer subject to the Austrian
Empire. The agreement also restored the old historic constitution of the Kingdom of Hungary. The Hungarian political leaders had two main goals during the negotiations. One was to regain the traditional status (both legal and political) of the Hungarian state, which was lost after the Hungarian Revolution of 1848.]

– 1873 Buda and Pest join to become Budapest. The Jewish Quarter was next to Pest; Jews had to pay a toll to enter and had to leave at night.

– 1896 millennial celebration; Heroes Square, Andrássy ut (street, it and the metro were built to get the visiting Aristocracy from the Danube to the Park), City Park (Városliget Park), Vajdahunyad Castle and the metro to all these were built. The property along Andrássy ut was sold to the rich so that it would look good and maintain appearances; today most Embassy’s are here (US excluded). Vajdahunyad Castle is a Disney-like complex, consisting of small models of significant buildings throughout Hungary (so the aristocracy could see them as examples, without having to go there). Germans were contracted to build the metro line, only the second in Europe and the first to be fully electric.

– After WWI, Treaty of Trianon, Hungary lost 71% of its territory, 58% of its population, and 32% of ethnic Hungarians. Transylvania went to Romania; Slovakia went to Czech.

– 1940, Hungary joined Germany; in order to gain their allegiance Hitler promised to give them back land (Transylvania in particular). In 1944 Germany “invades” in order to fight the Soviet Union after the downfall of their pact.

– 1949, With WWII over, Soviet Union takes over.

– 1956, Hungarian Revolution. Soviet Union has to loosen the leash so as to not lose control (Communism does have to take into consideration and adapt to the local culture, people, and custom’s).

– 1989, Democracy arrives after the fall of communism (see Ronald Reagan statue).

– 2004, joins EU (due doesn’t yet use the Euro, as I found out).

Places:

– Szabadság Square (Liberty Square), built around 1900 and reincarnated multiple times depending on who is in charge (Hungary, Austrians, Soviets, Hungary). Currently (added ~2014) there is a WWII monument which is controversial; it makes Hungary look innocent of the Final Solution, although they weren’t (see picture of paper). The US Embassy is here, as well as a Soviet memorial to war heroes.

– Kossuth Square. This is the square of the 1956 demonstrations/revolution/massacre; a peaceful protest against the communist means of governing turned violent, and secret police started shooting. 70+ killed, likely more. Within a few years after this restrictions were slowly and slightly lifted, vs other eastern block countries. House of Parliament is here, as well as the Kossuth memorial.

Across the Danube in the hills of Buda…

– Matyas Templom. Church, then Mosque, then hospital (Nazi’s), then nothing (Soviets), then Church (around 39% are Catholic, 14% Protestant, .3% Muslims, and the rest agnostics or atheists).

– Prime Minister, President house.

– Buda Castle.

Hungary has a rich history which, owing to their geography, means they were kicking ass and getting their ass kicked by a lot of different players. They were not usually in the drivers seat, and WWI (or more generally their marriage with the Austrian Empire) ruined their 20th century since:

– They were a loser in WWI, and subsequently lost a lot of land

– Because of that they took the wrong side in WWII

– Because of that defeat they were then ruled by the Soviet Union

It’s only since 1989 that a truly independent Hungary has existed.